An old city in the new world
As you slowly walk through the narrow lanes of Itchan Kala, Khiva’s Old City in Uzbekistan, it feels like entering a fairy land—a fairy land of beautiful mud brick and majolica-tiled architecture. Not many who travel to Uzbekistan make a stop at this UNESCO World Heritage site.
As you slowly walk through the narrow lanes of Itchan Kala, Khiva’s Old City in Uzbekistan, it feels like entering a fairy land—a fairy land of beautiful mud brick and majolica-tiled architecture. Not many who travel to Uzbekistan make a stop at this UNESCO World Heritage site. People are usually taken in by more touristy places like Samarkand, Bukhara, and of course, the capital city, Tashkent. But visit Khiva, and your heart will stop. It might not have the dominating presence of the Registan Square or the Bibi Khanym Mosque of Samarkand, or the stark beauty of the Kalon Tower of Bukhara, but the ancient walls—Khiva boasts over 2,500 years of history—literally speak to you, in a charming, warm way.
Inside Itchan Kala, one would rarely find any vehicles, barring the electric buggies for tourists. But be a sport and let go of the buggies to explore the city on foot. It whispers stories forged in the fires of the 17th century. The narrow lanes and bylanes all lead to the same places—no fear of getting lost here. If you are looking to capture beautiful images, Khiva is a city best explored close to sunset when a warm golden hue descends over the ancient structures.
The bazaar in the narrow lanes of the Old City
Bronze sculptures of a merchant caravan with camels
As one moves deeper into the heart of the city, the architectural masterpiece and decaying grandeur of ornately decorated brick buildings invites admiration. Don’t miss the many metal sculptures generously displayed in front of mosques and at city squares. For example, there is a catching sculpture of two old men sitting and sharing a laugh as a samovar of tea rests by their side; or, one of children with toothy grins biting into juicy slices of watermelons. The workmanship of these metal statues are beyond par, the expressions and emotions as real as imaginable.
The vivid blues and greens of traditional tiles sparkle against the clear sky, creating a vibrant contrast that captivates the eye. Every façade and archway offers a glimpse into the artistic soul of this ancient city. To the left of the West Gate of is the magnificent Kuhna Ark. Ascend to the Watchtower of the Ark, and you are rewarded with a spellbinding 360-degree panorama of the city below.
The bustling bazaars, filled with the scent of spices and dried fruits, add an undeniable energy to the atmosphere. Merchants, proudly showcasing their handcrafted textiles and ceramics. Take a pause and pick up some ceramic platters, but be sure to bargain, else the shopkeeper might just be offended! It’s the perfect place if you are looking for the traditional Karakul hat made with the fur of the Karakul sheep. While you may not be able to wear it in any weather other than extreme winters, it makes for an interesting souvenir.
As twilight descends on Khiva, the city is bathed in the soft, ethereal glow of streetlamps. The silhouette of the ancient walls against the night sky creates a breathtaking panorama, while the distant sound of a musician strumming traditional melodies floats through the air. It’s a moment of introspection; standing amid these storied ruins, one can almost hear the whispers of history, grounding them in the rich legacy of the place.
