Faraway Festival of Eclectic Esoterica

The road leading to the land of the Lisu tribe in Arunachal Pradesh is long and arduous. If one travels by road from Guwahati in Assam, it takes an overnight bus or train ride to Tinsukia, followed by a three-hour drive to Miao. From there a backbreaking nine-hour journey on a 4x4 pickup truck, through the dense forests of Namdapha National Park finally leads to Gandhigram, a remote village nestled in the easternmost corner of Arunachal Pradesh, bordering Myanmar. Also known as the Yobins, the Lisus belong to the Tibeto-Burman ethnic group and remained largely unknown until the 1960s, when the Assam Rifles stumbled on them. With roots tracing back to China’s Yunnan province and later Myanmar, some Lisus migrated to India long before independence, quietly settling in these forested hills. Despite their deep historical presence, the 5,000-odd member community remains one of India’s least-known tribes. But they are now making efforts to share their culture with the outside world.

This year, the Lisu community came together to host the second edition of Khoshi Pai, their traditional New Year festival. Entirely funded and organised by villagers, the event reflects a growing desire to assert their identity. “We’ve seen other tribes proudly showcase their traditions. We wanted to do the same,” says Ngwasibo Yobin, a local cardamom farmer and festival organiser. “This year, the festival is bigger and better.” Khoshi Pai translates to ‘New Year Celebration’—Kho meaning year, Shi meaning new, and Pai signifying celebration. Unlike the Gregorian calendar, the Lisu New Year begins with the arrival of spring (early February), marked by the blooming of peach buds. It’s a time of renewal, gratitude, and homage to divine spirits and the guardians of the land.

Women posing for a picture

The two-day festival transforms Gandhigram into a hub of tradition and joy. People gather in vibrant traditional attire at the village grounds nestled between the Noa Dehing river and the misty Patkai Hills. Stalls brim with a curious mix of goods: baked items from Itanagar, skincare from Pakistan, Chinese crockery, Manipuri mekhelas, and food products from Myanmar. Second-hand clothing stalls and steaming momos add to the festive buzz.

The festival preparations begin a day before, with families making Zah Ko Lo (a sticky rice cake), brewing Nui Jih (rice wine), and laying out new clothes for the New Year. Central to the celebrations are three sacred traditions that embody the tribe’s cultural essence.

The first is the chey, or crossbow—a revered symbol believed to protect the community from evil. Legend has it, a Michey clan boy once crafted a crossbow to defeat a spirit that was abducting villagers. Made from sacred wood and hemp string, it now stands tall at the heart of the festival grounds, a reminder of ancestral courage and protection.

Beside it burns the Sacred Flame, the second element. This fire is believed to consume lingering malevolent spirits and serves as a protective force throughout the festival.

Lisu boys

The third is Shaphe-ta, the drink of friendship. Shared from a single cup by two people, it symbolises reconciliation and unity—reinforcing community bonds through forgiveness and mutual respect. However, the highlight is the Cho-Lo Da-Da—a traditional group dance performed around the Sacred Flame. Young men and women, wearing vibrant costumes, move in synchrony to the sound of flutes (Tio-ma), wooden guitars (Chi-bui), and rhythmic chants. The dance celebrates life, community, and spiritual connection.

For the Lisus, Khoshi Pai is more than just a New Year—it’s a declaration of cultural pride. In a region where mobile networks and the internet remain scarce even today, the festival offers a rare window into an ancient way of life.